Bandung-the Paris of Java
Once called Paris of Java, even the Paris of the East, Bandung, a bustling city of nearly three million people, still retains many of itscharming tree-lined avenues and fine art deco bildings from the 1930s. Through progress and prosperity, many of its art deco delights today rub shoulders which modern office blocks and factories. Built as Indonesia's first hill resort around 100 years ago, who then would have believed the traffict that now chokes the streets of this dynamic city?
Before the arrival of the railway in 1880, it could take as long as three or four days to make the perilous journey by horse from Jakarta to the cool green hills around Bandung.
But, after the completion of the rail connection, Bandung and the surrounding Parahyangan Highlands quickly became a popular weekend destination for Jakartans wanting to escape the sweltering heat.
Early one morning at Gambir Station in Jakarta we climb aboard the Parahyangan Express to follow in the tracks of those first railway travellers. We settle back to enjoy three hors of scenic splendour as we head into the heartland of West Java. Soon our train begins its ascent into the highlands and we watch the grassy plains give way to spectacular rice terraces. And climbing into the foothills of mighty volcanoes we pass slender bridges spanning rugged gorges and deep ravines.
Surrounded by rolling hills of manicured dark-green tea plantations, Bandung, at a cool 800 metres above see level, draws many visitors, both domestic and overseas tourists. It ranks high among the tropical art deco centres of the world and is often mentioned in the same breath as Miami and Napier.
New York-born Frances Affandy is a driving force behind the revival of many of Bandung's fine old buildings. Her enthusiasm for the priceless heritage of her adopted city is unbounded and has contributed much to the very active 400-member conservation society. It is lack of money that preserves old buildings, however with increasing progress and prosperity these treasures are now under great threat.
The art deco architecture, Bandung's most famous attraction of Angklung.
When, early next morning, we reluctanly leave Bandung the sound of the Angklung playing The Blue Danube still rings in our ears. It seems a fitting finale to this charming city which has so successfully blended East and West.
Jeans STREET
While you're looking skyward, you'd better duck! Cepot, the puppet clown (dressed in denim?), is cycling out of a maze of bycicles high on wall, straight into thin air!
What's going on? Superheroes to the left of you, jokers to the right, here you are stuck in the middle of... Jeans Street. You are in the dynamic heart of garment retail in Bandung, the textile and clothing manufacturing centre of Java.
Shopfronts along a kilometre stretch of Jalan Cihampelas, as it is formally known, are outdoing each other as they bid for your attention. Jeans Street has reigned for more than a decade, an overflow of elaborate shops full of bargains. It is a fitting tribute to the fashion heritage of its location.
In the heady days when Bandung was known as th Paris of Java, Jalan Cihampelas, a beautiful, broadthoroughfare of elegant Dutch housesset among glorious canari trees, was referred to as the Champ Elysee.
Rumour has it that Cihampelas is an Indonesian transliteration of Champs Elysee. Today, the legacy of trees remains. Luxuriant leafy boughs overhang the road, balancing in their grandeur the fabulous fabrications that have replaced the old Dutch houses.
The transformation of Jalan Cihampelas was started in 1984. At that time, there were two popular places to buy jeans in Bandung. The other one was Jalan Pajajaran, which offered something fresh, decorating its stores in cowboy themes complete with wooden shopfronts, swinging saloon doors, tethering posts and wagon wheels.
When an old Dutch house in Jalan Cihampelas put out a sign and opened its front room to sell jeans, it was a comparatively quiet start. Set in a shopisticated street graced by grand old trees. It was rather pleasing to the ego to shop in such an exclusive location. And the Jeans were different.
Jalan Cihampelas, it was big news in Bandung-another good place for jeans!
Jean shops began springing up in all directions. Enterpreneurs got in on the act,buying up houses or contracting them out, putting into play their creative tactics to lure people away from the other streets and the neighbours'stores, and into their jeans dens.
Once called Paris of Java, even the Paris of the East, Bandung, a bustling city of nearly three million people, still retains many of itscharming tree-lined avenues and fine art deco bildings from the 1930s. Through progress and prosperity, many of its art deco delights today rub shoulders which modern office blocks and factories. Built as Indonesia's first hill resort around 100 years ago, who then would have believed the traffict that now chokes the streets of this dynamic city?
Before the arrival of the railway in 1880, it could take as long as three or four days to make the perilous journey by horse from Jakarta to the cool green hills around Bandung.
But, after the completion of the rail connection, Bandung and the surrounding Parahyangan Highlands quickly became a popular weekend destination for Jakartans wanting to escape the sweltering heat.
Early one morning at Gambir Station in Jakarta we climb aboard the Parahyangan Express to follow in the tracks of those first railway travellers. We settle back to enjoy three hors of scenic splendour as we head into the heartland of West Java. Soon our train begins its ascent into the highlands and we watch the grassy plains give way to spectacular rice terraces. And climbing into the foothills of mighty volcanoes we pass slender bridges spanning rugged gorges and deep ravines.
Surrounded by rolling hills of manicured dark-green tea plantations, Bandung, at a cool 800 metres above see level, draws many visitors, both domestic and overseas tourists. It ranks high among the tropical art deco centres of the world and is often mentioned in the same breath as Miami and Napier.
New York-born Frances Affandy is a driving force behind the revival of many of Bandung's fine old buildings. Her enthusiasm for the priceless heritage of her adopted city is unbounded and has contributed much to the very active 400-member conservation society. It is lack of money that preserves old buildings, however with increasing progress and prosperity these treasures are now under great threat.
The art deco architecture, Bandung's most famous attraction of Angklung.
When, early next morning, we reluctanly leave Bandung the sound of the Angklung playing The Blue Danube still rings in our ears. It seems a fitting finale to this charming city which has so successfully blended East and West.
Jeans STREET
While you're looking skyward, you'd better duck! Cepot, the puppet clown (dressed in denim?), is cycling out of a maze of bycicles high on wall, straight into thin air!
What's going on? Superheroes to the left of you, jokers to the right, here you are stuck in the middle of... Jeans Street. You are in the dynamic heart of garment retail in Bandung, the textile and clothing manufacturing centre of Java.
Shopfronts along a kilometre stretch of Jalan Cihampelas, as it is formally known, are outdoing each other as they bid for your attention. Jeans Street has reigned for more than a decade, an overflow of elaborate shops full of bargains. It is a fitting tribute to the fashion heritage of its location.
In the heady days when Bandung was known as th Paris of Java, Jalan Cihampelas, a beautiful, broadthoroughfare of elegant Dutch housesset among glorious canari trees, was referred to as the Champ Elysee.
Rumour has it that Cihampelas is an Indonesian transliteration of Champs Elysee. Today, the legacy of trees remains. Luxuriant leafy boughs overhang the road, balancing in their grandeur the fabulous fabrications that have replaced the old Dutch houses.
The transformation of Jalan Cihampelas was started in 1984. At that time, there were two popular places to buy jeans in Bandung. The other one was Jalan Pajajaran, which offered something fresh, decorating its stores in cowboy themes complete with wooden shopfronts, swinging saloon doors, tethering posts and wagon wheels.
When an old Dutch house in Jalan Cihampelas put out a sign and opened its front room to sell jeans, it was a comparatively quiet start. Set in a shopisticated street graced by grand old trees. It was rather pleasing to the ego to shop in such an exclusive location. And the Jeans were different.
Jalan Cihampelas, it was big news in Bandung-another good place for jeans!
Jean shops began springing up in all directions. Enterpreneurs got in on the act,buying up houses or contracting them out, putting into play their creative tactics to lure people away from the other streets and the neighbours'stores, and into their jeans dens.
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